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Post by namelessfoe on Jan 18, 2019 22:31:26 GMT -5
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Post by namelessfoe on Nov 27, 2019 15:34:53 GMT -5
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Post by joshinator99 on Nov 28, 2019 19:31:28 GMT -5
Updates look good! Smart move relocating the battery. Better weight distribution and frees up some room in the engine bay too.
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Post by namelessfoe on Nov 29, 2019 22:56:38 GMT -5
Thanks, hows the camaro coming along
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Post by namelessfoe on Mar 29, 2020 16:48:39 GMT -5
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Post by Sabertooth on Mar 29, 2020 19:52:56 GMT -5
That looks perfect for mounting a large turbo
Is there a section of hood frame you can cut out underneath to clear? Or can you mount it any lower?
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Post by namelessfoe on Mar 30, 2020 5:27:37 GMT -5
Tons of room now. Gonna save up and have a bottom mount manifold made to utilize space. I technically could notch out the hood. But there is enough space if the bracket is molded right to not have to touch the hood. Also picked up 3 mishimoto 19 row coolers (for oil, ps, trans) that I'm going to have mounted along with a mishimoto intercooler when I can finally bring it to a shop. Currently have my B&M trans cooler mounted to front of rad, but it's practically the same size. Feel more comfortable with nothing on the front of the rad to allow full air flow. Also picked up a mishimoto thermostatic sandwich plate. That way I should be done with the fab shop in one trip. Now i'm waiting on suspension parts to get in while I wait. Dropping the car down to it's final resting place.
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Post by Sabertooth on Mar 30, 2020 8:27:50 GMT -5
Be sure to put a thermostat on the engine oil cooler. I've found that the oil is a bit too cold (190f) in cruising, and the hottest I've gotten it to is 230f. 215f is a great temperature, as there won't be any water in the oil from blowby that way. Then for maximum temperature, it depends on your oil. Often times, about 250f. So 215-240 seems like a great range
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Post by namelessfoe on Mar 31, 2020 16:03:52 GMT -5
Might upgrade from the 180 degree thermostat to the 210. Figured with the Turbo creating more heat, and smaller rad, i'd add a cooler for the oil. Trying to get all supporting mods on, than i'll start slowly picking up the turbo parts. Think my final choice is either the on3performance gt30 or garrett gt35. Which I've been reading on the tial 38mm wastegate and bov should be good for. Than I just have to find a boost controller. Or can I trust a 5lb gate spring?
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Clementine
Mar 31, 2020 18:29:08 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by Sabertooth on Mar 31, 2020 18:29:08 GMT -5
GT3082 would be a great choice, or a GT3582.
You could run just the spring. A boost controller can only add above the spring pressure, usually about twice the gate pressure, sometimes a little higher.
I don't see a reason to go to a 210f thermostat, as it'll just make everything run hotter always. What's your reasoning for it? Or do you mean for the oil, in which case, makes sense, and as I write this I suspect strongly I mis interpreted what you wrote and am just making a fool of myself xD
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Post by namelessfoe on Apr 1, 2020 5:18:48 GMT -5
Probably a misunderstanding. I was speaking of a 210 degree thermostat for the thermostatic sandwich plate I bought. So just for the oil. Going to be picking up a Mishimoto race coolant thermostat so it should open around 160 degrees
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Post by Sabertooth on Apr 1, 2020 8:13:25 GMT -5
Gotcha. Yeah, a big rad, plus lower temperature coolant thermostat should help keep temperatures down a little longer
My worry with that coolant T stat is that oil would get a lot of water in it on the streets, as it would never see full oil temperature
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Post by namelessfoe on Apr 1, 2020 12:46:26 GMT -5
I'd probably only run the 160 t stat in the summer and switch back to stock for winter. Especially since I had to run an inline t stat for my tranny cooler since it would never get hot.
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Post by namelessfoe on Apr 5, 2020 9:40:33 GMT -5
So changing rear lower control arms sucks. Front inner tie rods were loose. Got them off and the grease was practically water. No tears in the boots, but explains why they were so loose. Have to wait until Monday now to get on the phone and see if I can order new hardware for rear since I had to cut the rear loward control arm free from the subframe.
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Post by Sabertooth on Apr 5, 2020 15:32:08 GMT -5
Well, at least it's off now. Do you have an oxy torch setup?
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