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Post by Sabertooth on Jun 16, 2019 22:30:02 GMT -5
Josh, yes. Core plug is the proper name, freeze plug and expansion plug are slang terms. Semantics though. I've heard about that trick, but I was told 10 times to do it dry for every person who said to use any product, so I tried it out. I kinda wish I went with my gut and used some RTV now though. I'll know if heat works or not when my friend gets back home, because I'm 90% sure my dip stick tube is in his garage, and he's been away. That, and hooking up the battery are all I need to run the engine
Nameless, yes I am. It's a racecar build more than a street car. The weight savings and better cooling of the engine are worth more than the AC itself for me. Since I started using impact tools, I haven't been breaking bolts nearly as much as when I used ratchets. Today I snapped one with a ratchet. Over the entire swap, I've snapped four in total. 3 by hand, one with an impact. In contrast, 80% of the nuts and bolts were removed with an impact gun. I think it has to do with the fact that all the energy is going to spin the fastener, and none to bend it over. Plus, many small impacts will do less damage than one large torquing motion
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Post by namelessfoe on Jun 19, 2019 21:22:05 GMT -5
I can't wait to yank my AC out. I'm a sucker for old school wrenching by hand. But after doing mine and my wifes Patriot's suspension I'm looking into air tools.
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Post by Sabertooth on Jun 19, 2019 23:23:37 GMT -5
Air tools can be very nice. Do you have a good compressor setup?
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Post by namelessfoe on Jun 20, 2019 5:38:23 GMT -5
Unfortunately no, Have a pancake compressor for small stuff. Big compressor for the garage is on my wish list. Been busy buying specialty tools. Strut top hat socket is next.
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Post by Sabertooth on Jun 20, 2019 21:43:48 GMT -5
So, there's no ECU connection possible, and no cranking. The injectors also do not click when the key is turned to "On"
I did some testing as to why the car doesn't start. Found that the ECU has power and ground, checked literally every pin on the ECU harness to be sure they're good, checked all ground cables, cleaned them all anyway, still no luck. Added more grounding. No luck starting, but found the MFI was only giving 0.2v to the ECU at best.
I found that the MFI circuit triggers the ECU to turn on. Tested the relay, it's fine. Swapped it anyway. Found that the MFI relay is getting no power. Checked the starter solenoid relay, it also has no power, nor does the AC clutch relay. The entire relay box has nothing.
I jumped the MFI and the starter solenoid terminals off the battery. The starter turned, and the ECU turned on! So no fried ECU for this guy just yet. Also have a code for high IAT sensor voltage. Perhaps there's a short there, but maybe not. No sensor was plugged in, and the sensor does have resistance based on temperature, so it SHOULD be reading high right now.
The MFI gets its power from the ignition switch, so next step is to test if the ignition switch has power.
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Post by Sabertooth on Jun 26, 2019 8:39:24 GMT -5
Problem was a bad main harness connector.
Fixed now. Had my first startup yesterday. The pistons definitely are louder than stock, but it's doable.
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Post by namelessfoe on Jun 26, 2019 19:00:22 GMT -5
Love when it's the simple things. Glad you figured it out.
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Post by joshinator99 on Jun 26, 2019 20:59:37 GMT -5
The piston noise might mellow out some once the motor warms up too.
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Post by Sabertooth on Jun 27, 2019 7:56:42 GMT -5
Yeah, that's my thought too
I have to mod my charge piping because the Evo manifold sits about 3" lower and not on an angle like stock. But I've got my new couplers. Tune too. Just got to put the charge piping on, boost leak test the system, and it should be good to run properly.
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Post by namelessfoe on Jun 29, 2019 15:40:44 GMT -5
Gonna sound like a commercial air pump driving down the street.
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Post by Sabertooth on Jun 29, 2019 18:45:10 GMT -5
Put on the new charge piping yesterday, leak tested it, and learned something valuable. You MUST use an evo gasket for the manifold, and an eclipse manifold for the thermostat housing. Just cut the gaskets carefully, and use what you need where you need it.
The Eclipse manifold is the same runner width, and same at the bottom, but at the top, the evo injector openings sit about 3mm higher, so our gasket doesn't seal it.
Anyways, on to today. I took it for a drive. Nothing broke, but my turbo oil return line leaks (only 1 year old, and it's oil rated hose, but it's somehow become ruined), and I need more trans oil. I put in about 2 quarts. Unsure of the actual capacity, but either way it's not gonna do another tour of the block until I have that filled properly. My MT90 was supposed to be in stock wednesday. It's saturday of a long weekend now, so maybe tuesday? Depending on work. I'm pretty ecstatic though. 1km done of the 500km break in before I begin doing anything much throttle wise. Around 1000km I'll up the boost.
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Post by joshinator99 on Jun 29, 2019 20:30:23 GMT -5
Congrats on the maiden voyage! Always exciting (and nerve racking lol) to get a build out of the garage and out on the road.
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Post by namelessfoe on Jun 30, 2019 20:48:55 GMT -5
The first turn of the key after changing things around is stressful. Odd the line is shot for only being a year old.
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Post by Sabertooth on Jul 1, 2019 7:21:54 GMT -5
Very odd. It may be related to the line being just standard oil and fuel rated rubber hose, and sitting right below the turbo. It sees a lot of heat radiating onto it, and at the top is where it's bleeding through the hose
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Post by namelessfoe on Jul 1, 2019 20:39:11 GMT -5
If it's gonna be close to the turbo, you might wanna look into a heat sheild tube. DEI or Heatsheild products.
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