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Post by Sabertooth on Oct 23, 2019 23:08:38 GMT -5
I plan to always run it. I suppose breakdowns can happen, but so can plumbing antifreeze and that's cheap
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Post by namelessfoe on Oct 26, 2019 20:27:24 GMT -5
lol, if you use antifreeze than it's a must that you use an actual waterpump to move it.
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Post by Sabertooth on Oct 27, 2019 8:21:29 GMT -5
It was definitely going to be pumped through either way
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Post by Sabertooth on Nov 8, 2019 19:52:42 GMT -5
Oh, update. The issue was MAINLY that my flywheel bolts backed themselves out, AGAIN, lol. But also the flywheel was dead. There's almost no spring tension. So it WAS in fact two things
Tip: Never re-use flywheel bolts on a VW 1.8T.
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Post by namelessfoe on Nov 9, 2019 21:26:53 GMT -5
Did you use loctite on them? Hey other question. Did you have to do anything special to remove the AC and still have the heat work on your Eclipse?
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Post by Sabertooth on Nov 9, 2019 21:30:25 GMT -5
Yeah, I used lots of medium strength loctite, and also torqued them proper.
And nope, not at all. I left the heater core, just removed the AC components and compressor from the setup
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Post by namelessfoe on Nov 9, 2019 21:38:01 GMT -5
Damn, does VW use torque to yield on the flywheel? I never use my AC and think it would make it a whole lot easier to route turbo plumbing if it's not there. I just don't want to loose heat.
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Post by Sabertooth on Nov 10, 2019 14:46:18 GMT -5
Yeah, they're torque to yield. I've never encountered a torque to yield that was single use only though and meant it.
Eg, the head bolts are TTY single use, but even VW says they're fine to use 3 times
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Post by namelessfoe on Nov 12, 2019 22:58:02 GMT -5
That sucks, I always considered tty bolts as a one time use bolt. Don't know why they would use them on a serviceable part though.
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Post by Sabertooth on Nov 13, 2019 16:38:50 GMT -5
Torque to yield is better for things where there's a lot of potential for vibration, as they won't back themselves out due to the deformed threads
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Post by namelessfoe on Nov 14, 2019 18:19:00 GMT -5
I know the reason for tty, usually they are on headstuds, cam shafts, ect.. Never seen them on Flywheels.
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Post by Sabertooth on Nov 15, 2019 17:09:19 GMT -5
Gotcha.
I suspect VW cranks are poorly balanced. There's a lot of clutch chatter when you go single mass on them, unlike Mitusbishi, who I know does balance their cranks
That high level of vibration may be why they do it
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Post by joshinator99 on Nov 28, 2019 19:51:38 GMT -5
When I've got the opportunity I'd like to build my workshop to have heated floors. I'll run PEX line through the concrete before it cures, and connect that to a water heater. Thus, heated concrete floor. It will be so nice. I did radiant heat in my garage floor off my home’s high efficiency boiler. Even just keeping it in the high 50’s is great. I’ll start working in there with a sweatshirt on but after a few minutes I end up taking it off. I just ran the tubing every 12” apart, which is typical in a residential garage application. But if I had to do it over, I would run it 6” apart over by the garage doors since the heat loss is much greater there (and 12” apart the rest of the garage). Then I coated the floor with epoxy. Makes for a good place to work on cars... but I still usually bring my Camaro to my friends performance shop since he had a lift and I’m lazy... lol. I don’t have any great pics of it but do have this one with my wife’s Giulia in it. Oh, no need for antifreeze in the slab, just water as long as you are keeping it heated all winter. ![]()  |
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Post by Sabertooth on Nov 28, 2019 20:40:29 GMT -5
My concern would be a heater failure on a -40 day. I wouldn't want the concrete to crack
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Post by namelessfoe on Nov 28, 2019 20:46:27 GMT -5
I've been looking at those ductless ac/heater systems. Might be my go to after this winter.
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