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Post by namelessfoe on Nov 24, 2019 11:06:27 GMT -5
So removed all AC hardware, turned my attention to removing the wiring back to the fuse boxes. Reading the wiring diagram it looks like one fan is on a relay just for the condenser. I'm trying to see if I can remove the small fuse box for the AC and if that would keep the "condenser fan" from kicking on when the coolant temp sensor kicks the fans on.
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Post by Sabertooth on Nov 24, 2019 18:20:55 GMT -5
Sounds good! I was thinking of using a second switch to that other fan for manual control while the car is off. Then use a little VW coolant pump or something to keep circulation
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Post by namelessfoe on Nov 24, 2019 21:34:35 GMT -5
I'm gonna remove all fuses and relay out of that box and drive it around and see if anything changes. If not the box and the wiring are coming out.
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Post by Sabertooth on Nov 24, 2019 22:56:11 GMT -5
I pulled my AC compressor relay long ago. I can at least say for certain THAT didn't affect the secondary fan.
I'm excited to see how this goes! On the topic of radiators, do you see any issues in moving the rad towards the nose by a few inches with no AC system? Mine's stored away right now and it's killing me not being able to check
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Post by namelessfoe on Nov 24, 2019 23:32:36 GMT -5
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Post by Sabertooth on Nov 25, 2019 15:21:04 GMT -5
Oh yeah. A half size rad is great if you plan to with a turbo for 500+hp
I was also looking at those, but I'd like to see what can be done cheaply first with the stock components.
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Post by namelessfoe on Nov 25, 2019 18:40:59 GMT -5
I hear ya, I'm more of the what can I use here instead of stock. I'm gonna order that rad after the new year and see about making it work.
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Post by Sabertooth on Nov 26, 2019 19:54:48 GMT -5
Two very opposite goals shooting for the same result. I'm sure I'll have to change mine at SOME point, but until then, I'd rather play with moving it and aero to focus the flow than spending money on a replacement.
I'm definitely still interested in your method though. It's nice seeing someone else who'll dig right into these cars
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Post by namelessfoe on Nov 26, 2019 22:57:32 GMT -5
Yeah, Hope by next year i'll have another car to drive around town and pick the kid up. That way I can tear this car apart. After I cut the trunk out earlier this year i've made it a bet with myself how much I can change and move around. I was also trying to figure out how i'm going to get a duct around the radiator. I'm eventually going to try and fab some cooler brackets like the evo and have coolers under the headlights.
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Post by Sabertooth on Nov 27, 2019 9:04:19 GMT -5
What sort of coolers?
Also, have you got any pictures of your trunk now, form above and below? I've been struggling a bit with rear diffuser ideas because of it
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Post by namelessfoe on Nov 27, 2019 12:44:33 GMT -5
Oil cooler under passenger headlight and trans cooler under driver's side. That way I don't have the trans cooler blocking the half rad. I'm going to try and have custom bash bar made to mount intercooler, Keep my ps one on the lower rad support. I'll try to post some pics when I get home. What I did was just cut the tub out and weld a sheet in its place. Just a temporary thing so I could use my trunk.
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Post by namelessfoe on Nov 27, 2019 12:45:34 GMT -5
Also, do you know if the Evo 7-8 egr block off plate will work with ours?
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Post by Sabertooth on Nov 27, 2019 13:48:22 GMT -5
For the oil cooler, be sure to use a thermostat. Outside of hard driving, it's tough to keep the oil hot enough. On the streets I've only seen ~230f, which is safe, and above 212f which you want your oil to be. That's on a hot summer day, about 3h of driving. At the drag strip, doing consecutive passes, I've never seen over ~220
The stock crash bar works great for holding intercoolers. I drilled holes in mine and dropped bolts down through into my intercooler
And for EGR, yeah, theirs should work. It's the same size and shape as ours, the difference is theirs is a vacuum activates EGR, ours is electric. You're better off keeping your EGR until you have a reason to remove it though. The only reason I can come up with is that cylinder 4 temperatures get high when running boost with our EGR, which can cause damage. NA, it's not an issue. When using an Evo intake manifold however, you MUST remove it, due to space issues. When you do your motor that's going to see boost, or just turbo setup, I definitely suggest an evo intake manifold if it's not going to be daily driven as a "nice" car (the bottom end losses and top end gains are both quite noticeable). It's best to do it when you're making your charge piping, as the evo manifold sits a few inches lower than the Eclipse manifold (much shorter runners)
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Post by namelessfoe on Nov 27, 2019 15:05:31 GMT -5
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Post by Sabertooth on Nov 27, 2019 16:55:08 GMT -5
I'm onboard. I like it.
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