|
Post by Sabertooth on Dec 16, 2019 15:22:58 GMT -5
Colten, what are you using for tuning? And do you have any codes?
|
|
|
Post by cmturner on Dec 16, 2019 16:46:22 GMT -5
Colten, what are you using for tuning? And do you have any codes? I'm using fastworks, and no codes
|
|
|
Post by namelessfoe on Dec 16, 2019 17:55:33 GMT -5
Don't the heater elements still work on the rear o2's when they are plugged in? Think it would be safer to just install them if that is the case.
|
|
|
Post by cmturner on Dec 16, 2019 18:14:35 GMT -5
Don't the heater elements still work on the rear o2's when they are plugged in? Think it would be safer to just install them if that is the case. They do still work, I've never touched them to see how hot it gets, but they are not near anything thay would get burned by them
|
|
|
Post by Sabertooth on Dec 16, 2019 23:49:41 GMT -5
They're supposed to be 600f at the heater element. Definitely plenty to burn you, but how much transfers to the outer casing and gets radiated away affects what you touch
|
|
|
Post by namelessfoe on Dec 17, 2019 5:49:28 GMT -5
I'm guessing it's the same with the upstream if you set it to one bank you still need to have bank 2 sensor 1 plugged in. The fight to streamline this engine bay is exhausting, (pun intended).
|
|
|
Post by Sabertooth on Dec 17, 2019 9:06:42 GMT -5
Yeah, all O2 sensors must be plugged in. It's quite annoying when you only use 1-2 of them and have 4-5
|
|
|
Post by namelessfoe on Dec 17, 2019 13:40:14 GMT -5
Is it the same with the EGR delete? or can that be unplugged?
|
|
|
Post by Sabertooth on Dec 17, 2019 15:17:38 GMT -5
EGR delete has not been coded out successfully.
I have mine plugged in but still get codes with it not in place.
I'll try and figure it out with Michael in the spring/summer
|
|
|
Post by namelessfoe on Dec 17, 2019 20:22:22 GMT -5
Nice, still waiting on Michael to finish this tune from august.
|
|
|
Post by cmturner on Dec 17, 2019 20:24:57 GMT -5
Nice, still waiting on Michael to finish this tune from august. Message Alex on the Facebook page, he has been the go to guy for tuning fastworks now, Alex handles all the messaging for Michael and the basic tune updates
|
|
|
Post by Sabertooth on Dec 17, 2019 20:50:23 GMT -5
Lol, Alex and I talk every day, and somehow never mentioned that he's actually doing that now. We last talked about it maybe in October. I'm gonna have to go bother him
To give some background... Alex has a turbo Lancer that was running stock ECU, but due to limitations he's gone Haltec. The lancer ECU is not as fast as the Eclipse one, so function is very limited. He does tune his own stuff, does build motors, and is a professional mechanic. He knows his stuff, and gives good advice. He's working on finding the limitations on stock parts, fairly parallel to my built motor project. I think he's been running 15psi on stock internals, and aside from destroying some lancer differentials, it's held up (he has a GS trans now, and it's handling the abuse fine)
|
|
|
Post by namelessfoe on Dec 17, 2019 21:50:54 GMT -5
I don't doubt his abilities, I thought $350 to Michael was an initial tune and than a final. Don't want to pay to finish this up if i'm going to have to tune again for turbo next year.
|
|
|
Post by Sabertooth on Dec 18, 2019 10:01:18 GMT -5
Typically, you pay the difference. Eg, I spent $250 on my NA tune, and the boosted tune was $550 or $650, I don't recall.
So $250 was taken off the cost of the boosted tune, and I paid what was left. The boosted tune was just a base map, however. From there, I've been doing my own adjustments, but Michael still provides advice
|
|
|
Post by namelessfoe on Dec 18, 2019 18:01:04 GMT -5
Gotcha, I'm completely oblivious to the tuning aspect. I'd rather pay someone to get it where it needs to be.
|
|