4G69 Build

300hp on a 4G69 isn't that much. Just block off your EGR at the head. You can drill it and drop an NPT plug in there quite easily, if you remove the head.

The reason is that cylinder 4 runs hot with it, as some exhaust gasses escape past it in boost still. This has been known to cause the piston in the #4 cylinder to explode


As for contacting Michael, he's tough to get ahold of. Typically, Alex Kazmirchuk is the go to now. He's taken over the bulk of Fastworks tuning. Michael tends to have hundreds of messages on Facebook at any given time, and I'm not sure what his current emails are even. I know they've changed over the last few years

That's because I was an idiot and wrote PCV not EGR. EGR must be blocked

As for built motor, it comes down to power level, and for how you want it to hit boost. Eg, if you want boost down low, definitely you'll need rods. If you want high boost on pump gas, you'll need lower compression pistons.

I sell wiseco pistons and Brian Crower rods cheaper than retail, I'm not sure what the exact price is currently, but it's cheaper than any store. I also include ACL bearings for $100 more (tri layer race series ones). They're what's in my block. I can sell either ARP 2000 or ARP 625+ fasteners in the rods depending on if you want to rev high or not (the 2000 ones are still gonna handle more than stock, the 625+ should handle until about 9000rpm with proper engine machine work)

I wouldn't use decompression spacers, or 2 head gaskets, as that's just asking for a leak, plus our head gaskets are MLS, which is super thin

If you want to run 10psi, you should be able to all day long on a turbo that hits around 3000rpm. Higher can definitely also be done, it's just a time bomb, as one instance of bad knock at high boost will take out the stock motor. That's what forged pistons are good for, is surviving when something goes wrong

If he used the wrong size pistons, or did his ring gap wrong, it'll burn oil, or just blow it out the PCV.

I've got no issues burning oil on Wiseco pistons, and my ring gap is 30 thou (huge!!!). You'd only do around half the gap at your power goal, which would give you less blow by, and require less idling time before you can drive it (for the rings to expand).

You could probably get away with stock motor for a while, but for total reliability, no worries going on a 5000 Mile road trip, I'd be more comfortable with a built block. I can get you an exact price, shipped, when you're ready, but Wiseco low silica pistons (87mm or 87.5mm, it depends on if you want to bore your engine out for 100% perfect fit), Brian Crower rods with arp2000+ bolts, and ACL racing series tri layer bearings should run you around $1300 shipped. I don't know the exact number right now because of Wiseco's price change, but do know I can beat minimum MSRP with this kit, and it can't be bought cheaper at any store.

If you wanted to do just 87mm pistons, I also have some Manley ones sitting around, rated for 1200hp+, whatever that means. I could sell those cheaper than the Wiseco, as I'm willing to take a hit on them. 500usd shipped, but if they're good or not depends on cylinder wall wear, so full disclosure, they're probably gonna make some noises and have extra blowby if the cylinder walls are worn

Stud wise, the prices are pretty flat across the market. I can probably put them into the same order at a very competitive price though, and if not, wouldn't include them. I think it was a couple hundred for a pair of head studs and main studs. Head studs are probably all you'll need, but you'll need fresh main bolts anyway, as they can't be reused, and the price becomes similar to the studs you can reuse

Water meth would not be needed.

You use standard Evo rods at 150mm length, and stroker height Evo pistons.

If you're gonna go 87mm anyway, you may as well grab the Manley pistons off me at the discounted rate (below wholesale) instead of Wiseco below retail. Not gonna lie, the incentive is that they stop sitting on a shelf for me, and I recover some losses from having decided to go 87.5mm instead for my high power build. They'll run the same as 87mm wiseco. And are made from the same materials, with the same dimensions.

I just want to make sure that every thing is direct fitment, as far as i know there is wiseco pistons for the 4g69 ,and i dont see any rods any where, so i read a topic about some guys are using the evo rod which is 150mm , i need to be sure that using this combo ( evo rods and wiseco pistons work) i dont know about the manely pistons i didnt find any pistons specific to the 4g69 on their website only the stroker for the 4g64 and 4g63 head ( 87mm bore size, 150 m rod length and 100 crank ) i donno if any 87 mm piston to be used with the 2.4 l evo engine would fit the 4g69, thats why i asked about the the evo stroker . I donno what is the evo stroker height either! . If the rods u are talking about are the ones that made for the evo 7 bolt and the manely pistons are the ones i have seen on there website and u r sure no further adjustment needs to be done, then its okay i will take them both u have to calculate the shipping as well , destination is Egypt

P.s i am asking alot because i wont find any one here to correct things and help me
Thank you

I know the combo of rods and pistons I sell will work, because I run that combo.


My Manley pistons beside me are ~8.2:1 with a 4G69 head. 8.5:1 on a DSM 4G63, 9:1 on an Evo 4G63 (all different head volumes). 1.130" is the listed compression height for a 100mm 4G63 by Manley, and these pistons (on the box). The Wiseco are 1.137 for a 100mm 4G63, and what I currently run

Compression wise, I have 8.2:1 in my car though with no issues. I went with low ratio, as it's easier and cheaper to make up lost power with more boost than make up lost power by running race gas all the time. I found that the extra power up top vs higher compression is nice, especially when combined with other parts such as a 4G63 intake manifold designed to flow well at high RPM. I've been happily revving to 8000 while racing, and love the extra room to rev. Down low, I still find myself shifting at lower RPM than NA due to the added power of the turbo. On my setup, it's still spooling down low


The Wiseco I run aren't sold as 4G69 pistons, they're sold as 4G63 pistons with 100mm stroke. They came fully up to the deck. The Manley ones are the 617020CE-4 (extreme series, with upgraded wrist pins). I think they're the highest spec Manley makes. I can still get you the Wiseco, I just don't think the 0.8mm difference is gonna matter, but may drop the compression ~0.1, according to some calculators i used online. Even more so because they are 0.8mm shorter, not taller. I'm not familiar with the Wiseco 4G69 pistons themselves, but, after seeing how well mine worked out, I'm not sure why they show 1.102" compression height, as that's way low. We know 1.137' will fit (mine), and we know 1.102 will fit according to Wiseco, so the 1.130 should work fine.


I'll have to look into a price on rods for you. Would you like ARP 625, or ARP2000 bolts in them? The 625+ ones are the highest strength offered by ARP, but typically costs a couple hundred more USD on a set of 4 rods. 5.906" are the rod length for the 4G69 though.

If your power goal is enough to warrant the 625+, you're at a point where you're gonna be wanting everything machined in your block first, and a built head before you crank it right up. For most people, the ARP 2000 are plenty. Brian Crower puts it at a typical 700hp crossover point on the 4G63 with those rods where you'd then switch to the 625+ bolts. So it's probably best to save your money. The 625+ are rated for "1000+", so it's anyone's guess on that.